Restaurant: The Maple Leaf
Location: Covent Garden
By Boeing: 5889 miles
By Boris Bike: 6.2 miles
In a recent poll Canada was voted the country that had the most positive impact on the world. Yet it borders a country seemingly hell-bent on policing the rest of the planet, wreaking havoc and sowing animosity in the process. This neighbourly discord forms the cornerstone of Canadian identity. In the Middle East Americans pose as Canadians to avoid the acrimony and anger reserved for a nation widely perceived as the malevolent meddlers of the modern age. Canadians meanwhile do the opposite, desperate to separate their identity from their American cousins and assert their differences and distinctions.
Geography has condemned Canada to remain in America’s shadow but there are some key differences that soon become apparent. While the USA is fiercely proud of its independence, Canada is not only a member of the British commonwealth but also Francophonie, the alliance of French speaking nations. While the USA gives mere lip service to the authority of the United Nations and other international bodies, preferring instead a knee-jerk, Gung Ho ‘who’s with us?’ approach, Canada is actively seeking closer ties with the European Union. Canada seeks to sit round the table rather than lecture from the lectern.
The culture of Canada is defined both by its stunning landscape and vast open spaces and its split British and French influence. Many in the French speaking province of Quebec seek independence. Their architecture, cuisine and lifestyle are based around a French model. Meanwhile the other provinces, while having sizeable French speaking minorities, tend to look to Britain for their cultural and culinary cues. But irrespective of language or location Canadians look to the life of the great outdoors for inspiration.
With half the population of the UK spread out across the second largest country on earth there is no shortage of space. The vast lakes, mountain ranges and tracts of tundra would take several lifetimes to explore. These natural wonders have become the symbols for Canadian products and tourism posters. The untamed, untarnished wilds of the North seize the soul of the explorer. Ellesmere Island, just 508 miles south of the pole, is the most northerly settlement on earth. While Vancouver and Ontario are cities of reknown, Canada is a land of unending idyll rather than urban ideal.
The Maple Leaf was adopted as the national symbol in 1965. It has become the flag-bearing, mascot-wearing image of Canada and lends its name to London’s sole Canadian dining establishment. Intended as a home from home for ex-pats its principle lure are huge plasma screens beaming the national pastimes of ice hockey and basketball. Half-Timbers have been crudely affixed to the walls to give the impression of fur-trappers log cabin and the walls are satisfyingly scattered with cultural paraphernalia. Framed Ice Hockey shirts, sketches of Inuit camps in remote mountain ranges and sepia photographs of the visiting Elizabeth Regina offer interest and intrigue. But dominating the room and drawing the eye is a stuffed bear, standing on its rear paws in a glass cabinet. On this journey I’ve become accustomed to the tacky but taxidermy is something quite new.
I had a good look at the menu while supping a glass of some imported Sleiman’s Honey Beer. North American favourites including burgers, ribs and chicken wings predominated. Indeed you had to look hard to find distinctions with the greasy grub offered up at TGI Friday’s. Pulled Pork, Corn Chowder and Meat Loaf were introduced as Canadian specialities but i opted for the Canadian snack of choice, Poutine. This is rather an exotic name for an almost embarrassingly simple dish: French fries, smothered with melted cheese and gravy. I threw some ribs in too for a bit of variety. The Canadians have made a national dish out of something students have been lazily throwing together on jaded Sunday mornings since time, or at least formal scholarship, began. But it was pleasant enough and I left, as I had anticipated, full to the brim.
Canadian food is not for the calorie conscious. The long treks of those pioneers who sought to tame the wilderness in this perilously cold climate developed man-size appetities, only be sated with large quantities of fat-fryed fare. The hunting culture, embedded in national consciousness, makes vegetarianism almost an unpatriotic act, and huge slabs of Moose and Cow are enjoyed in quantities that would make a European baulk. For variety Canadians have welcomed the cuisines of their immigrant populations, with Chinese a particular favourite.
Although a very successful, affluent economy Canada is a quiet and understated exporter to the world. Except that is for comedians. Many of the funniest people on the planet hail from Canada including the rubber-faced pair of Leslie Nielson and Jim Carrey and the golden lights of the younger generation, Seth Rogan and Michael Cera. With the USA so close there is of course no shortage of satirical material at hand but even so the number of graduates from the school of side-splitting is impressive given the relatively small population. So the Canadians are popular, peaceful, pleasant and, it seems, particularly funny: there is a chance that with all this adulation they will become just a little smug too.
